NZ: Martinborough Wine Tasting

Unfortunately, the Tongariro Crossing (aka hiking past Mt. Doom from Lord of the Rings) was closed due to inclement weather. Inclement weather, in fact, that followed me down to Wellington and out to Martinborough. No matter though. I had an enjoyable night's stay at the hostel in the National Park and I excelled at a new drinking/party game!

Look, no hands! VIDEO (make sure you have the volume on; as one observer said, we sound like geese in heat!)

I had some time to kill in Wellington and I was hoping to explore the city, but the train station didn't have a bag check. With an 19kg/42lb pack, I can't really walk all that far. I tried to find a nice cafe outside the station, but no luck. So, back to the station for a chai latte and brief grocery shop at New World before boarding my train to Featherston. On the train, I randomly sat next to and chatted with the wife of the viticulturist for Craggy Range. She is a high school history teacher in Wellington, and her partner is the viticulturist for a wine brand that recently hosted Jancis Robsinson for a tasting! (In the wine world, this is huge. Jancis Robinson is up there, or higher than, Robert Parker).

Anyway, she helped me put my bags on the bus to take me to Martinborough and what a surprise the bus route was! I knew it was a 20 minute ride. I didn't know it would be through nothing but farmland and middle-of-nowhere roads with the driver stopping off in front of people's houses or at their parked cars. After slowly unloading my pack and grocery bags (I travel around with a soft shell chill bag of milk, condiments, and yogurt along with another bag of dried goods) right in front of Kate's Place, where I am staying, I felt really in a hometown environment.

Kate's Place is a backpacker/home stay, and I am in the living room at the moment, using the Internet. I am the only guest for these two nights, so I have the 2 bunk room and bathroom to myself, as well as the living areas during the day. It is fantastic (free laundry, spacious, free Internet, and comfy) and a great home base to explore the vineyards of the area, which are all within walking distance from the house!

The weather on Thursday has been warm, but humid, with often constant drizzle. No matter. I walked between rain drops to reach the nearest vineyard, Martinborough Vineyard, and tasted away while conversing with a local grape grower for the vineyard (originally from Minnesota, but living here for over 30 years) and the vineyard staff. I then walked along the vine-trellised roads to reach the next place, Schubert's, where I tasted and chatted with the pourer and another American traveller from CA.

Netted vineyards (to protect ripe grapes from the birds) at Schuberts

Next onto Ata Rangi, where I bought a bottle of Red blend, 50% Merlot, 30% Syrah and 20% Cabernet. At the next vineyard, I wandered off the main roan because Vynfields, which wasn't on my map, had an Open sign displayed. It was a 400m walk around the bend and I walked up at the same time as three Canadians travelling through, and they soon became my tasting (and transportation) companions!

Ata Rangi wine boxes

We all shared a few tasting flights at Vynfields before carrying onto Alana Estate, Te Kairanga, and Tirohana Estate for more tasting. My tasting companions graciously invited me to their rented cottage for dinner and I didn't say no....so I had several more tastes and a yummy pasta bake to mop it all up with for dinner! I had a lovely evening with them, and they even gave me a ride back to my accommodation at the end of the night!

Alana Estate

On Friday, I slept in late and only went to one winery, Canadoro, before stopping in at a cozy cafe on the Martinborough main street for a latte bowl and a panini. I read the newspaper (doom and gloom in the Business section and the fires in Australia are taking the headlines) and looked through my Rough Guide for inspiration on where to go next week. I have Mon-Thurs to spend somewhere on the northern part of the South Island before getting down to Christchurch by Thursday night for my Melbourne flight on Friday. I am leaning towards staying a few days in Nelson, on the Marlborough Sound.

I am leaving Martinborough now to catch a bus to Featherston, a train to Wellington, a taxi to the ferry terminal, a ferry to Picton on the South Island, and then a shuttle ride to my hostel. I will be staying in Picton for the next three nights as my home base for going to the Marlborough Wine Festival on Saturday and Sunday. Fingers crossed it won't be raining down there!